If you’re ever in downtown Detroit, try the Lafayette Coney
Island, or the National Coney Island next door. I worked in Detroit many years ago, and went there often.
It makes no difference, which one you go into, I think the
owners are brothers, or cousins and I think they share everything. But I could be wrong.
Anyway, order two hamburgers, loose, with everything. The surly waiter will yell: “Two
loose!” And the surly guy standing at the windows in front will make them up in
nothing flat. (The grills are at the front windows so passers by can see all
the food.) Then he’ll yell: “Two
loose!” He’ll toss them on the counter and they’ll land with a clatter.
They’ll come to you on too small a plate; a shovel-full of loose
hamburger meat in a steamed hotdog bun with chili, mustard and onions dripping
off, and will be one of most delicious eating experiences you’ve ever had.
It’ll be messy, you’ll need a few extra napkins, but it will
be worth it.
And I always wished the man at the window had been named
Lautrec.
Think what the waiter could have yelled.
I’ll be visiting Detroit someday soon. God, I hope they’re still in business.
I hope it hasn’t turned into a sushi joint.
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